Party season starts now, which means the good shoes come out of the box and meet their first spilled drink. Satin, suede and velvet each fail in a different way and each need a different response. Most of the damage people do is done in the first thirty seconds, with the wrong cloth and too much water.
Before you wear them at all
Protect them dry, before the first outing. A protector spray designed for the material, applied lightly, from about twenty centimetres away, in two thin coats rather than one heavy one. Let them dry fully, away from any radiator.
This takes ten minutes and prevents most of what follows.
Suede
Suede is nap, which means the enemy is flattening as much as staining.
Brush it dry, always, with a proper suede brush and short strokes in one direction. For a scuff, a suede eraser lifts more than you expect. For a water mark, the counterintuitive fix is to dampen the whole panel evenly with a barely wet cloth, so there is no edge to the mark, then let it dry naturally and brush the nap back up.
Never put suede near heat. It hardens and does not come back. LUNA in burnt orange suede will look better in three years than in three months if you brush it after every wear, which takes about thirty seconds.
Satin
Satin is a weave, and the weave is what gives it the sheen, so anything that disturbs it shows permanently.
Blot, never rub. Work in the direction of the weave. For a mark, use a cotton bud, cool water and the smallest possible amount of gentle soap, and test on the inside of the strap first. Dry with a clean cloth by pressing, not wiping.
Grass and oil are the two that will not come out at home. Take those to a cobbler rather than making them worse. ALLEGRA in pink satin is worth the extra care here, because satin is the material that rewards it most.
Velvet
Velvet is pile, and crushed pile is the main problem, not dirt.
A soft brush lifts it. Steam lifts it further, held well away from the shoe, never touching. Let it dry, then brush again in one direction so the pile lies evenly. STELLA in black velvet responds well to this, and black velvet in particular looks flat and tired the moment the pile goes in two directions.
Do not use water on velvet if you can avoid it.
Storage is half the job
Keep them in the dust bags, not the box, and not stacked. Stuff the toes so the upper holds its shape. Away from sunlight, because suede and satin both fade, and away from damp.
If you have space, store them upright rather than on their sides. A shoe stored on its side for a year develops a crease you cannot remove.
When to stop and see a cobbler
Worn heel tips, a lifting sole, a deep stain, or any damage to the structure rather than the surface. All four are cheap to fix early and expensive to fix late.
A resole on a leather-soled shoe costs a fraction of the shoe and buys you years. Our full care guide covers the routine, and there is more on how these are built in why Italian-made heels are worth it.
Questions we get asked
Can I use a household stain remover on satin?
No. Most are too alkaline and will dull the sheen permanently.
How often should I re-apply protector spray?
Every four or five wears, or after anything gets wet.
My suede has gone shiny in patches. Is it ruined?
Usually not. That is flattened nap, and a suede brush plus a little steam will often bring it back.
